SS19 LFW Men′s: The Round Up
After its 12th season, London Fashion Week Men’s finished this week. As all the thrill, risks and incredible designs have come to an end, it’s clear British fashion is in very capable hands. Whether it was Edward Crutchley’s revolutionary take on print and fine fabrics or Alex Mullins’s soft-big suits, British fashion is in full force for SS19. Here, we’ve looked at our top three shows from across the weekend.
Samuel Ross, the face behind A-Cold-Wall*, is one of the most talented British designers on the scene. Although beaten to the LVMH prize by Masayaki Ino, designer of Japanese streetwear brand Doublet, this did not affect his confidence. In a production that was a work of art more than a fashion show, opening the show were men covered in cement, dressed in the brands signature detachable hoods, followed by a collection that focused on human form, structure and materials. The British talent toyed with proportions and combinations; think relaxed suits mixed with PVC shirts and industrious accessories. The finale confirmed Ross's incredible development since debuting his utilitarian street wear brand this time last year. The cement painted men returned to the runway with a box; after breaking its walls, a naked man was revealed wearing nothing but red acrylic and a patent detachable hood.
With the rise of Asian culture in fashion, it’s not surprising Xander Zhou makes the cut. A designer at the forefront of Chinese talent, Zhou shook things up with his SS19 collection. Exploring the line between reality and fantasy, Zhou’s sci-fi influence tested the boundaries between human and alien. Soundtracked to the voice of a female robot, male models came down the runway wearing prosthetic pregnant bellies and Halloween-esque blue contact lenses. The collection itself was commercial and wearable; unisex silhouettes featured throughout the production entwinning technical fabrics with digital prints and colourful layering. Zhou’s signature motifs of boxy office attire and traditional Chinese detailing (the button knots) brought back an element of familiarity from his previous collections.
Edward Crutchley’s collection focused on the collaborative side to fashion. The English-born talent came together with a range of creatives including artist Lucien Murat, whose work questions contemporary mythology and our relationship with machinery and the new world. The couple worked together to create a series of stunning prints and embroideries. Crutchley also teamed up with Bower Roebuck, one of England’s oldest mills, who wove his suits using a blend of merino wool and mohair; a bold move in today’s market. Other partnerships included the collaboration with Shimogwa - who made the traditional kauri-irate fabric used in the Hawaiian shirts and shorts - and Chiso, an elegant kimono printer that helped create hand painted and foil printed fabrics. Overall, a truly inspiring collection that embraced Asian influence and highlighted the infinite possibilities of print and fine fabrics.