Menswear AW18 - The Trend Round Up
Alas, the worldwide menswear fashion tour is over. From London to Milan to Paris to New York, we’ve truly been spoilt by collections in this years Autumn/Winter gathering. Following the trend of the RTW ladies SS18 shows, we once again saw glimpses of unisex looks throughout the weeks, of which some lent towards the feminine side (Kenzo, Balmain, Moschino). We felt that the AW18 menswear was a moody affair overall, at times daringly edgy but always with a playful twist on textures. Here’s our trend round up below.
Checked print as an idea doesn’t really scream new or original, however, when reviewed in a modernised manner, it has become a trend favourite. Used in all different sizes and colours, checked patterns were prominent across the entirety of the month. From bold statement combinations at No. 21 to bright checks combined with Looney Toon designs at Bobby Abley, we couldn’t get away from them. We saw more of an understated approach with Ralph Lauren presenting grey-on-grey car coats and cropped jackets whilst quite the opposite at DSquared2; bright check western shirts. In New York, Joseph Abboud brought the trending pattern in a similar style to Ralph Lauren; grey suits with coloured checks.
50 Shades of Brown
It seems browns the new navy. Tobacco shades ranging from light-khaki brown to deep-red hues were seen amongst trousers at Chalayan, suede bomber jackets at Oliver Spencer and oversized coats at Qasimi. Meanwhile in New York, Death to Tennis provided beige suede jackets with a range of lengths. Taupe and chocolate was also the shade of choice for Kim Jones’s final show for Louis Vuitton as well as the go-to tone for accessories; from Armani’s bags to Craig Green’s bum bags, we were not disappointed.
At a time where America is experiencing a slight identity crisis, it seems interesting there being a heavy Western cowboy theme throughout this years men’s collections. The look started in London with John Lawrence Sullivan opting for very hard-hitting fabrics on American iconographies; think cowboy boots and leather jackets. Astrid Andersen continued the fad by bringing back the original western hat reminiscent of that classic 1860’s Stetson. The footwear was everywhere in Paris; from a chisel toe to a pointed finish or a stacked heel and tasselled outsoles, we saw it all. Yee Haa!
The padded puffer jacket is no longer simply a place for the practical wardrobe for the cold season. Now, the winter staple has ascended to ‘fashionable hero-item’ status. In London, Alex Mullins reinvented the overcoat in the form of a padded camel coat and Christopher Raeburn’s low profile navy padded bomber shone. The quilted alternative was notably prominent at Versace and GMBH whilst MSGM and Marni gave the look a vintage feel. Tom Ford’s layered galactic approach to the jacket was also a breath of fresh air. The real showstopper, however, came from Prada; layered quilted jackets with the sharp lines of a square, leaving our male audience in the office in awe.
Last season, Miuccia Prada started the corduroy obsession with a collection dominated by the ribbed fabric. For the AW18 collections, the trend went viral. Oliver Spencer showed the plush trouser in shades of turmeric, cumin and cocoa powder whilst Liam Hodges and Alex Mullins also got into the groove. Velvet was also the called upon fabric this year in the natural progression replacing denim. Its presence was made in tailoring – with Blood Brother serving up a berry red suit jacket while Band of Outsiders opted for a forest green two-piece. Emporio Armani continued to love the look and used the revitalised material throughout the entire collection.
Our fashion fix continues as we now attentively await the Womenswear RTW AW18 collections which kick off in the city that never sleeps, today. Hallelujah!