SS18 LFW: The Round Up
London Fashion Week has officially left the building. The trends were wide and varied and as usual ranged from the sublime to the surreal. From high street to high end, here are our favourite shows over the week.
It was only four years ago that Hannah Wieland and her label Shrimps burst onto the scene. With her line of pic’n’mix coloured faux fur coats, Wieland shook the fashion world and became house favourites to stars such as Kate Moss and Alexa Chung. To this day, Wieland continues to build on her love of outerwear, exploring new techniques from mock Mongolian shearling to printed, jacquard, velvet and even crochet fur effects. With romance the forefront of her inspiration - having recently embarked on a trip to Italy where her Fiancé proposed to her - the 27 year old expressed her iconic designs in millennial pinks and fluoro green; a combination that ran throughout the whole collection. Long and sweeping party dresses came with trousers dropping to the floor. We loved the looks even more so with the finished styling of crystal broaches and chunky costume jewellery.
It was summer in the capital for Jasper Conran as the designer presented everything from dyed denim to silk taffeta. At first, the collection was focused around denim – over-dyed in rich tones of navy, green and brown, the seemingly simple designs were brought to life with subtle and practical details; think eyelet fastening on jackets or D-ring belts on dresses. Further into the Conran journey the show switched its focus to crisp cotton pieces with bold, graphic patterns. Perhaps the most attractive designs came through the inspiration of summer florals and on a lightweight, sometimes translucent base of cotton, delicate petals, leaves, birds and bees were stitched.
Roland Mouret, the king of drape and shape, refreshed his signature look by creating a much more relaxed, almost Iberian vibe. The collection still flattered every curve but the dresses were less done up than usual. The models hair was styled in a similar way; no fuss natural waves, gentle curls and loosely tied back ponytails complimented each look. Mouret was developing his look to “destroy this idea of perfection”, without alienating the women who made him King of the catwalk.
Antonio Berardi kicked off the shows on Monday and did not disappoint. Freedom were ever so lucky and extremely grateful to be invited to the show to see Berardi’s brilliance first hand. Known for his delicate and enhancing tailoring, Berardi flared up each look with patent leather lace up boots in black, red or white. We saw every trouser shape imaginable, from cropped flares to skinny cigarettes. Jackets included waste riding blazers with contemporary drawstring corseting and the Italians take on classic black tailcoats. Berardi didn’t only cater for the city woman – a softer side to the collection showed fabrics more associated with the country life. Handkerchief hems (a common trend amongst other designers this year) were also prevalent; from long subtle tops over tailored trousers to standout skirts lined entirely in scarlet. Finishing with a quote from Franklin D. Roosevelt – “Remember, remember always, that all of us, and you and I especially, are descended from immigrants and revolutionists.” - Berardi’s collection was everything from romantic to glamorous to simply jaw dropping.
It was a busy Monday morning for us at Freedom. Being also invited to Pringle’s collection, we made our way over to One Marylebone to celebrate their take on the beauty and versatility of knitwear. Reminding us all that knitwear it not just for winter, much of the collection was as light as a summer’s breeze. Featherweight pieces were almost translucent in their structure, while candy coloured celluloid yarn were refreshingly modern. We can’t congratulate Pringle enough for the excellent show they put on and are very thankful for allowing us to be one of the first to see their incredible SS18 collection (not to mention the backstage pass, too).
Julien Macdonald closed the Monday schedule in one of London’s biggest nightclubs, Pulse. The stars came in full force including the likes of Ronan Keating, Tom Daley, Amanda Holden, Lilah Parsons and of course Freedom were there to witness first hand just how dazzling this show truly was (thank you Julien MacDonald!). Macdonald enlisted a host of top industry models to don his spectacular designs; Hailey Baldwin, Winnie Harlow and Alessandra Ambrisio all took a turn on the catwalk. The collection was as glittery and sparkly as ever. From floor length to below the knee, micro mini to just mini, MacDonald presented a series of signature sequined dresses sculpted at the waist accompanied by dresses finished with 1920’s flapper fringing and cut-out panelling. We also saw the softer side of MacDonald’s collection with models strutting down the runway in glorious billowing floral dresses fit for an evening stroll on the Promenade de la Croisette in high summer. The Welshman ensured the Monday night of LFW ended in a party of fashion; confetti cannons, as seen on our Instagram page, blew over us and Macdonald, as he greeted his applauding audience alongside Harlow and Ambrosio and we absolutely revelled in it.
A huge congratulations to our clients and all of the designers showing in the past week; as a fashion recruitment company, we couldn’t be prouder to be based in a city that showcases such original and inspiring fashion. They say as one door closes, another opens and in this fashion week month, no saying could be truer. We move our attention to Milan where we will no doubt be cooing over the likes of Jill Sander, Max Mara and Georgio Armani. Our beady fashion eyes are at the ready...