AW18 NYFW: The Round Up
As Marc Jacobs closed New York Fashion Week with a bang on Wednesday, we have rounded up our favourite collections, looking across some of the best collections of AW18 New York Fashion Week.
After only a year as Chief Director, Raf Simons has already made his mark for his prosperous future with Calvin Klein. This week in New York, Simons’s designs weren’t the only thing popping off. Using the former American Stock Exchange building as his illustrious set, the Belgian designer filled its entirety with beds of popcorn. Amongst our sweet and salty favourites, Simons had also built a barn house; his stage to re-examine his take on modern America. Opening looks referenced American heroism in the form of fire-fighter jackets combined with DIY gloves. However, it was the seemingly invisible transition from utilitarianism to flowing feminine gowns and immaculately textured knitwear that nodded to the Calvin Klein we all know and love. Nearly half of the models wore knitted balaclavas and huge gloves, similar to that of an astronaut. The music? Simon & Garfunkel’s Sound of Silence interposed between an intrusive white noise followed by an acapella recording of This Is Not America by the late David Bowie.
Tom Ford took us all back to eighties maximalism when he closed day one of NYFW. Leopard prints, neon colours and strong shoulders dominated his catwalk whilst nodding to eighties hair styles with wide leather headbands riding low on the models’ foreheads. Make-up came in the style of pop glam; think eyes rimmed with black liner. Yet, amongst all of the colourful eighties inspiration, black ensembles were at the heart of the show. Models donned black jumpsuits, metallic and leopard power suits, leopard dresses with leopard print tights and purses that matched the fabric of the pieces they accompanied; a stunt that provided order and class to a collection that may have been too ‘eighties’.
Bottega Veneta fled to the Big Apple for a one season only show to mark the opening of its Madison flagship housewarestore on Madison Avenue. The Italian brand, whom usually show in Milan, filled the old American Stock Exchange Building with their new chairs, couches and other vintage furniture to gage their new adventure in the US. On the runway, however, Chief Designer Tomas Maier presented both collections for men and women. Expressing the ‘real bravery and boldness’ of New Yorkers, Maier showed floral silk pyjamas, soft evening dresses and multicoloured coats. Poppy wool jackets and cashmere sweater also joined the party; however it was Gigi Hadid closing the show in a black velvet lace dress with diamond cut-outs that received a standing ovation at the end.
At Oscar de la Renta, designer Laura Kim and her design partner, Fernando Garcia, took inspiration from a memory they shared with the late founder himself: A trip to the Cloisters in 2014; the upper Manhattan museum specialising in European medieval art and architecture. Memories of the trip had the pair looking through Elizabethan embroidery and style and especially a tree branch pattern that appears throughout the entirety of the collection. Although the brand has always been known for their glamorous evening wear, Kim and Garcia took the term with a pinch of salt. Colloquialising the rules of evening wear, the Creative Directors showed evening dresses accompanied by knitwear as well as being drawn to a particular evening coat in filmy tulle, which appeared throughout the show in several colours; a lighter take on the formal evening coat de la Renta used to don in a shiny satin. Of course there were ball gowns and lush evening dresses further than the eye could see, however, could this be a slightly new era of Oscar de la Renta? We’ll wait in anticipation.
It all began 10 years ago in a hotel suite in Waldorf Towers. Now, Victoria Beckham holds her line as one of NYFW’s most prestigious shows. In her 2018 Fall collection, as ever, Beckham opted for a intimate show celebrating the female form. Simple silhouettes were graced in monochromatic colours and tailored outwears came in forest greens and navys. Beckham went for detail in her new line, spicing things up with strappy belts, timely shoulder pads and military-esque buttons. The showstopper however, an immaculately designed leopard print trench coat that stunned the room.
Jeremy Scott’s shows always run with a theme and inspiration and we always love to see what he comes up with. This year, he used sci-fi aspects as his creative stimulation for his collection. In a clear act of rebellion, Scott purposely chose to ignore the traditional fall tones of greys and browns, like many others, and decided neon shades would be the colours of choice this winter. The Fifth Element-esque bob-cuts certainly caused a stir on Twitter, especially when Gigi Hadid opened the show in a rose-pink version with matching cropped sporty top layered under a metallic zip-front pinafore. Then came mini hopped skirts, multi-pocketed tracksuits and ensembles harnessed in parachute strapping. Colours ranged from neon pinks through to bright oranges. And for footwear; think double soled trainers and a new collaboration with thigh high skyscraper Moon Boots.
What a way to start the month of fashion weeks. Next stop; our home, London. We can’t wait to see the stunning collection on show. Who are you looking forward to see the most?